Dakar

Dakar, sprawling across a peninsula at the westernmost tip of continental Africa, is Senegal's vibrant, chaotic and cosmopolitan capital, a city that pulses with energy, colour and music. It is a place of buzzing markets like the vast Sandaga, the enormous African Renaissance Monument towering over the city, colonial-era buildings, and a thriving cultural scene of art galleries and the infectious local mbalax music. Lively, sometimes overwhelming, and quintessentially West African, it is a fascinating gateway to Senegal and its warm, hospitable teranga culture.

What you actually see

• The African Renaissance Monument - the towering bronze statue and views.
• The markets - the bustling Sandaga and Kermel bazaars.
• The Museum of Black Civilisations - the major cultural museum.
• The music and arts - the mbalax scene and galleries.

When to go

November to May, the cooler, drier season, for the most comfortable weather; the city is lively year-round, with a vibrant nightlife and music scene. The coastal setting brings ocean breezes, and nearby beaches and the island of Goree offer easy escapes from the urban bustle.

Honest expectations

Dakar is a big, hot, hectic and sometimes overwhelming city, with heavy traffic, hustle and the usual precautions of a major African capital, so its appeal is energy, culture, music and warmth rather than polished sights or ease. The African Renaissance Monument is controversial and divides opinion. Embraced on its own terms, though, Dakar is a vibrant, welcoming and richly cultural introduction to Senegal and West Africa.

Nearby

Goree Island, the Lac Rose and the beaches of the Petite Cote are close by.