Darjeeling Himalayan Railway

The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway is a two-foot gauge line that climbs from the plains at New Jalpaiguri to Darjeeling at around two thousand metres, using loops and zigzag reverses to gain height instead of tunnels. Built in the late nineteenth century, it still runs, partly with steam locomotives, and for much of the route the track sits in the road itself, passing shopfronts and market stalls close enough to touch. Most visitors take the short joy ride from Darjeeling to Ghum and back, which includes the Batasia loop and the highest station on the line. The full journey from the plains takes most of a day and is frequently disrupted.

What you actually see

• The Batasia loop - a spiral where the line curves back over itself above Darjeeling.
• Ghum station - the highest point on the railway, with a small museum attached.
• Steam locomotives - the vintage engines still used on the tourist services.
• Track running through the street - long stretches where the line shares the road with traffic.

When to go

October and November give the clearest air and the best chance of mountain views from the line, and March to May is mild with rhododendrons in flower. The monsoon from June to September causes landslides that regularly close sections of track for weeks. Steam services and joy ride slots sell out in season, so book tickets in advance rather than at the station.

Honest expectations

Services are cancelled and sections closed more often than the timetable suggests, and the full run from the plains is slow, cramped and can take longer than the road. The joy ride is short, crowded and expensive for the distance covered. Diesel often replaces steam without notice. Views depend entirely on cloud, and for much of the year there is no mountain to see.

Nearby

Darjeeling's tea gardens and the sunrise viewpoint at Tiger Hill are close by.