Sandakphu

Sandakphu stands at about 3,636 metres on the Singalila ridge along the Nepal border, the highest point in West Bengal, and its distinction is the view: Everest, Kanchenjunga, Lhotse and Makalu, four of the five highest mountains on earth, are visible from the same spot on a clear morning, with the Kanchenjunga massif close enough that its shape is often described as a sleeping Buddha. The trek runs about thirty-two kilometres from Manebhanjan through rhododendron forest, crossing repeatedly between India and Nepal, with teahouse lodging. Old Land Rovers, in service since the 1950s, carry those who do not walk.

History

The name comes from the Lepcha language and is translated as "the height of the poisonous plant", for the Aconitum ferox and certain rhododendrons that once grew here in abundance. The danger to sheep and cattle driven through the area was so great that they had to be muzzled to stop them grazing on the plants (Wikipedia, Sandakphu).

What to look for

• The four eight-thousanders - Everest, Kanchenjunga, Lhotse and Makalu together.
• The sleeping Buddha - the Kanchenjunga massif's recognised profile.
• The border ridge - a trail crossing between India and Nepal repeatedly.
• The old Land Rovers - 1950s vehicles still working the rough track.

When to go

October to November for the clearest air and March to May for rhododendron bloom; the monsoon closes the views entirely. Winter brings snow and very cold nights in unheated lodges.

Practical notes

Views fail completely on cloudy mornings and many trekkers see nothing. Lodges are basic and unheated with shared facilities. Permits and a registered guide are compulsory. The Land Rover ride is rough enough to be uncomfortable.

Nearby

Darjeeling lies southeast; Manebhanjan is the trailhead.

Key facts