Chișinău

Chișinău, the capital of Moldova, is one of Europe's most low-key and least-visited capitals, a relaxed, leafy city known for its abundant parks and tree-lined boulevards. Rebuilt after wartime destruction and earthquakes, its centre blends grand Soviet-era architecture with older landmarks: the white Nativity Cathedral and its bell tower, the elegant Triumphal Arch, the central Stefan cel Mare Park with its statue of the national hero, and lively markets and cafes. Unpretentious and green, it serves as the welcoming gateway to Moldova's monasteries, countryside and celebrated wine cellars.

What you actually see

• The Nativity Cathedral - the white cathedral and bell tower.
• The Triumphal Arch - the elegant central landmark.
• Stefan cel Mare Park - the leafy central park and statue.
• The central market - the bustling Piata Centrala.

When to go

May to September, for the warmest, greenest weather, when the city's parks and outdoor cafes are at their best; the autumn wine season, culminating in the National Wine Day festival in early October, is a lively and fitting time to visit. Winters are cold and grey.

Honest expectations

Chișinău is a modest, workaday capital rather than a city of grand sights, so its appeal is its relaxed, green, unpretentious atmosphere and its role as a base for the country's real highlights, the monasteries and wine country, rather than blockbuster attractions; a day is enough. As a friendly, inexpensive and genuinely off-the-beaten-path European capital, though, it is a pleasant introduction to little-visited Moldova.

Nearby

The Cricova and Milestii Mici wine cellars and Orheiul Vechi are close by.