San Gervasio

Before Cozumel meant reefs, it meant pilgrimage. San Gervasio, in the scrub jungle of the island's interior, was the sanctuary of Ixchel - Maya goddess of the moon, fertility, weaving and medicine - and for centuries Maya women crossed by canoe from the mainland at least once in their lives to consult her oracle here, a crossing remembered today in the annual Sacred Maya Journey reenactment. The site is intimate rather than monumental: small temples, shrines and arcaded palaces scattered through the forest, joined by original sacbeob - the raised white plaster roads - with the central plaza's structures, the arch gateway, and the Ka'na Nah "tall house" oracle temple as anchors. Cortes and Grijalva touched here early, making it among the first Maya places Spaniards saw. The jungle supplies the atmosphere and the residents - iguanas at every corner, motmots and warblers in the canopy - and cruise-day middays supply the crowds, which early mornings entirely avoid. As the island's largest excavated site, it gives Cozumel's sea-days their history ballast.

What you actually see

• The oracle temples - Ixchel's shrines and the Ka'na Nah.
• The sacbe paths - white Maya roads threading the forest.
• The arch and plazas - the sanctuary's modest civic core.
• The jungle life - iguanas and birds owning the ruins.

When to go

Dry-season mornings before cruise excursions land, roughly before 10 am; the forest paths hold heat by midday. Birders come at opening.

Honest expectations

Structures are small - visitors expecting Chichen-scale pyramids will find a forest sanctuary instead; the story carries the visit. Bring repellent. Taxi rates to the site are fixed and add up; scooters suit the confident only.

Nearby

The wild east-coast beaches lie over the island's spine; San Miguel's malecon and the Palancar boats fill the coast side.