Isla de las Munecas

Deep in the quieter canals of Xochimilco, past the party boats and into the farm channels, a chinampa island bristles with hundreds of dolls - nailed to trees, wired to fences, hanging from the eaves of a hut, their plastic faces weathered blank or split by decades of sun. The caretaker Julian Santana Barrera began hanging them in the 1950s, retrieving broken dolls from the canals and markets - by his account to calm the spirit of a girl he believed had drowned nearby - and kept adding them for half a century until his death on the island in 2001. His family now receives visitors, who leave dolls of their own. Reaching it is half the experience: a two-hour trajinera pole through progressively wilder canals, past herons, greenhouse chinampas and glimpses of the axolotl's last habitat, far from the mariachi flotillas. It is eerie in photographs and stranger in person - less a haunted house than one man's fifty-year act of devotion slowly being eaten by the weather.

What you actually see

• The dolls - hundreds of weathered figures on trees, wires and walls.
• Julian's hut - the caretaker's shrine-like cabin, dolls included.
• The canal journey - quiet farm channels beyond the party embarcaderos.
• Chinampa country - the surviving pre-Hispanic floating fields.

When to go

Dry-season weekdays, November to April, when the canals are calm and boatmen have time for the long route. Confirm the destination and total price before boarding - the island needs the extended hire, not the one-hour loop.

Honest expectations

Several nearer "doll islands" imitate the original - insist on Isla de las Munecas proper. The long trajinera ride is most of the cost and time. The dolls are genuinely decayed; sensitive imaginations may prefer daylight hours.

Nearby

Xochimilco's embarcaderos, market and San Bernardino church; the Dolores Olmedo collection's former home lies toward the city.