Likoma Island

Likoma floats in the Mozambican half of the lake yet belongs to Malawi - a quirk of missionary history, for the island was the Universities' Mission's headquarters, and its astonishing legacy dominates the skyline still: St Peter's Cathedral, begun in 1903 on the scale of an English minster, its stained glass and soapstone carvings improbable above the baobabs. Around it, Likoma lives at lake pace - crystal coves on the northern shores, dhows building on the beaches, markets under the trees - and the arrival of the venerable MV Ilala ferry remains the island's main event, twice a week in each direction.

What you actually see

• St Peter's Cathedral - the vast 1903 mission church among the baobabs.
• The northern coves - clear-water bays for swimming and snorkelling.
• Dhow builders - hulls taking shape on the beaches.
• The Ilala's arrival - the ferry-day carnival at the anchorage.

When to go

May to October for dry, settled weather; ferry and flight schedules shape everything - build the Ilala's twice-weekly rhythm into any plan, or fly and float free of it.

Honest expectations

Getting there is the commitment: the Ilala is characterful, crowded and unpunctual by hours, flights are small and bookable-out; either way, spare days are wise insurance. Island supplies are simple - cash, medications and patience travel with you. The cathedral welcomes visitors; services deserve respectful quiet.

Nearby

Chizumulu, the sister island across the channel, and the Mozambican lakeshore lodges.