Chizumulu Island

Chizumulu lies in the Mozambican half of Lake Malawi but belongs to Malawi, as its larger neighbour Likoma does, an accident of missionary history. It is small, a few kilometres across, with a few thousand people, no vehicles to speak of and no airstrip, so the Ilala ferry and dhows from Likoma are the only ways on and off. The rock shores hold cichlids and the snorkelling is good; there is very little else.

Background

Chizumulu is the smaller of the two Lake Malawi islands that make up the Likoma District, and about 4,000 people live on it. Two large hills fill most of the island, with flatter ground to the south; cassava covers much of the lower slopes, forest the upper parts, and baobabs are common. There is no road, but a well-built path circles the island in about three hours on foot. Power is on between 6 am and 10 pm, apart from a pause from 12 to 2 pm, and most food comes from the mainland. The MV Ilala stops on its weekly lake crossing, and steamers also come from Nkhata Bay. Locals speak Nkamanga, a Chitumbuka dialect, and chiChewa.

Source: Wikipedia, "Chizumulu Island"

What you'll find

• The rock shores - the granite the cichlids live around.
• The dhow crossing - the sailing boats running from Likoma.
• The island villages - the settlements around the small island.
• The quiet - even less visited than Likoma next door.

When to go

May to October is the dry season. The Ilala calls on its circuit and the schedule shifts. Dhow crossings from Likoma depend on the wind.

Before you go

Getting on and off depends on the Ilala or an open dhow, both unreliable; being stranded is common. Accommodation is one or two basic lodges. There is no electricity supply worth the name.

Nearby

Likoma is east, and Nkhata Bay is west on the mainland.

Key facts