Suusamyr Valley

Suusamyr is a broad flat-bottomed valley at around 2,200 metres, some 150 kilometres long, lying between the Kyrgyz and Suusamyr-Too ranges, and in summer it fills with livestock brought up from the lowlands: thousands of horses and sheep, yurts along the roadside selling kymyz and boorsok, and open grass to the horizon. It is one of the most reliable places in the country to see the pastoral cycle in operation rather than staged, largely because the main road from Bishkek to Osh runs straight through it. In winter the same slopes carry deep snow and the valley has become a base for backcountry skiing and heliskiing, with a few lodges operating. Between seasons it is empty and bleak.

History

The name may come from Sygun Samur, a place recorded by Mahmud al-Kashgari in the 11th century, and if samur is an Iranian word for "beaver" or "otter", Suusamyr may mean "water beaver" (Wikipedia, Suusamyr Valley).

Highlights

• Summer herds - horses and sheep across the whole valley floor.
• Roadside yurts - families selling kymyz through the season.
• Open grassland - flat pasture running to the ranges on both sides.
• Winter skiing - backcountry and heli terrain on the surrounding slopes.

When to go

June to September for the pastures, with July the fullest month. January to March for skiing. The Too-Ashuu pass and its tunnel can close in storms at any time from October to May.

Practical notes

Accommodation is yurts and a few basic guesthouses; the ski lodges are the exception. The valley is exposed and cold even in summer nights. Kymyz is an acquired taste and stomachs unused to it often object. The main road carries heavy truck traffic.

Nearby

Too-Ashuu pass is at the northern end; Toktogul lies southwest.

Key facts