Arslanbob

Above the village of Arslanbob spreads a forest of wild walnut covering a very large area on the southern slopes of the Chatkal range, generally described as the largest natural walnut forest on earth. Families hold hereditary rights to harvest specific trees, and in autumn the whole village moves up into the forest for weeks to gather nuts, camping under the trees. The village itself is Uzbek-speaking, with a mosque, a bustling market and a Community Based Tourism office that arranges homestays, guides and horses. Two waterfalls above the village are the standard walks, and the holy lakes higher in the mountains take a full day on foot or horseback.

History

The village is named after Arslanbob-Ata, an 11th-century figure. Legend says Alexander the Great took walnuts from this forest to Europe, which is why Russian calls the walnut the "Greek nut", but research suggests the forests are around 1000 years old and were planted (Wikipedia, Arslanbob).

What you'll find

• The walnut forest - ancient trees across the slopes, best in autumn harvest.
• The walnut harvest - families camped in the forest gathering nuts from September.
• The two waterfalls - the small and large falls above the village.
• Holy lakes - a long day's walk or ride into the mountains above.

When to go

May and June for green forest and wildflowers, September and October for the harvest and autumn colour, which is the most interesting time to be here. Winter brings snow and most visitors stop coming.

Practical notes

Getting there is slow, involving shared transport and a final stretch on rough road. Accommodation is village homestays with basic facilities and shared bathrooms. The village is conservative and modest dress is expected. The waterfall paths are crowded with local visitors on summer weekends and lined with stalls.

Nearby

Osh is four hours south; the Fergana valley lies west.