Samburu National Reserve

Samburu sits north of the equator in hot, dry, thorn-scrub country, and everything in it depends on the Ewaso Ng'iro river running through the middle. That concentration makes game viewing along the river excellent even when the surrounding land looks empty. What draws specialists is the Samburu Special Five, species adapted to arid country and largely absent further south: Grevy's zebra with its narrow stripes and rounded ears, reticulated giraffe, Beisa oryx, gerenuk that stand on their hind legs to browse, and the Somali ostrich with blue-grey legs. Elephants come to the river in numbers, leopard are seen regularly along the riverine forest, and the birdlife is exceptional. The Samburu people, pastoralists related to the Maasai, live around the reserve.

What you actually see

• The Ewaso Ng'iro river - the reserve's spine, where the game concentrates.
• The Special Five - Grevy's zebra, reticulated giraffe, oryx, gerenuk and Somali ostrich.
• Riverine forest leopards - regular sightings in the doum palm woodland.
• Buffalo Springs and Shaba - the adjoining reserves across the river.

When to go

The dry months, June to October and December to March, concentrate animals at the river and make the tracks easier. Rains in April and November can cut access and swell the river.

Honest expectations

It is hot, often above 35 degrees, and there is little shade in the middle of the day. The road up from Nairobi is long and the last stretch rough; many visitors fly. Sightings are good but this is a smaller reserve than the Mara and the vehicle density around a leopard can be high. Lodges vary enormously in price and quality.

Nearby

Buffalo Springs and Shaba reserves adjoin; Mount Kenya lies to the south.