Shaba National Reserve

Shaba takes its name from the volcanic cone at its heart, and the landscape is defined by lava: black rock spread over the plains, springs welling up through it to feed pools and swamps, and the Ewaso Ng'iro river cutting along the northern boundary under doum palms. It is drier and more broken than Samburu across the river, and the game is thinner but the country wilder, with Grevy's zebra, reticulated giraffe, oryx, gerenuk and lion. Joy Adamson spent her last years here working with leopards and was killed in the reserve in 1980, which gives Shaba a particular place in the Born Free story. Visitor numbers are low, tracks are rough, and the springs and the palm-lined river make the best places to sit and wait for animals rather than driving after them.

What you actually see

• Lava country - black rock plains with springs breaking through.
• The Ewaso Ng'iro - the river under doum palms on the northern edge.
• Northern species - Grevy's zebra, oryx, gerenuk and reticulated giraffe.
• Springs and swamps - the water sources that draw wildlife.

When to go

Dry seasons, when animals concentrate at the springs and river and the tracks are passable. It is hot country at any time and midday is dead for game viewing. Early morning and late afternoon are when to be out.

Honest expectations

Game density is lower than in Samburu and Buffalo Springs, so visitors comparing directly may be disappointed. Tracks are rough and lava rock is hard on tyres. There are few lodges and facilities are limited. Travel plans in the area are worth confirming locally before setting out.

Nearby

Buffalo Springs and Samburu reserves lie west across the river; Isiolo is southwest.