Ruma National Park

Ruma sits in the Lambwe valley behind the Gwasi hills, and it exists largely for one animal: the roan antelope, a large grey-brown antelope with backswept horns whose only Kenyan population is here, numbering in the dozens and closely monitored. The park also holds Rothschild's giraffe, Jackson's hartebeest, oribi, Bohor reedbuck and leopard, along with a strong bird list including the blue swallow, a globally threatened migrant that winters in the valley's grasslands. Vegetation is a mix of open savannah, woodland and thicket, and the Gwasi and Ruri hills frame it. The park was originally set aside partly in connection with tsetse fly control in the valley, and visitor numbers remain very low: it is common to spend a day here without meeting another vehicle.

What you actually see

• Roan antelope - Kenya's only population, the reason the park exists.
• Rothschild's giraffe - introduced and doing well in the valley.
• Blue swallow - the threatened migrant wintering in the grasslands.
• Empty tracks - a park with almost no other visitors.

When to go

Dry seasons for the tracks; the black cotton soil here becomes impassable in the rains and 4x4 is essential at any time. Roan are most visible early and late. Bird numbers peak with migrants from November to March.

Honest expectations

Wildlife density is low compared with the famous parks and sightings take patience; roan in particular are elusive despite being the draw. Facilities are minimal, with a campsite and simple bandas. Tsetse flies are present and their bites are painful. Roads in are rough.

Nearby

Homa Bay is east; Rusinga Island and the lake shore lie north.