Mfangano Island

Mfangano lies out in the Winam Gulf, larger and hillier than Rusinga and reached only by boat, and it holds something rare in this part of Africa: rock art. Shelters at Mawanga and Kwitone carry concentric circles and spirals painted in red and white, attributed to Batwa people who lived here before the Bantu-speaking Suba arrived, and local tradition has continued to treat the sites as places for rain ceremonies. The island's population is largely Suba and Luo, living by fishing, and the hills give views across the lake in every direction. There are a couple of lodges and simple guesthouses, and getting around is by motorbike, boat or on foot. It is a slow place, with the rhythm set by the fishing boats going out in the evening and returning at dawn with their lamps still burning.

What you actually see

• Rock art shelters - red and white concentric paintings at Mawanga and Kwitone.
• Fishing life - boats, lamps and the dawn landings.
• Island hills - viewpoints over the gulf and neighbouring islands.
• Suba culture - the language and traditions of the island communities.

When to go

Dry seasons, when crossings are calmer and tracks passable. Mornings for the boat, since Victoria gets rough in the afternoons. Guides for the rock art are arranged in the villages near the sites.

Honest expectations

Boats are open fishing craft and crossings can be rough; life jackets are not standard. The rock art is faint and requires a guide to find and interpret. Accommodation is limited and basic outside the one or two lodges. Water hyacinth can block landings.

Nearby

Rusinga Island is east; Takawiri and its beaches lie nearby.