Hida Beef

Hida beef is Japanese Black cattle raised in Gifu for at least fourteen months and graded at least A3 or B3 on the national scale, with the yield grade and the beef marbling standard both assessed; only carcasses meeting those conditions get the certificate and the name. It sits alongside Kobe and Matsusaka in the top rank of branded wagyu without quite their price. The character is heavy marbling and a low melting point in the fat, which is why it is usually served in small quantities - a few pieces grilled on a hot plate or over charcoal, or as hoba miso, in which meat and vegetables are cooked with miso on a dried magnolia leaf over a small burner, a Takayama preparation. Sushi of seared beef on rice is sold on the street in Takayama's old town, and skewers and croquettes are the cheaper entry points. Butchers sell it graded and priced by cut.

What you actually see

• A certified name - fourteen months in Gifu and a minimum grade before it qualifies.
• Hoba miso - meat and vegetables cooked with miso on a dried magnolia leaf.
• Street beef sushi - seared slices on rice, sold in Takayama's old town.
• Small portions - heavy marbling means a little is enough.

When to go

All year. An hour. Lunch sets are considerably cheaper than dinner.

Honest expectations

It is expensive, and the richness means a large portion is unpleasant rather than better. Street versions vary in quality and some use lesser grades without saying so. Restaurants in Takayama queue at lunch. Check the certificate if the price seems low.

Nearby

Takayama's old town is the centre of the trade; Gero Onsen is south.