Hakuba Valley

Hakuba is a north-south valley under the steepest wall of the Northern Alps, with ten ski areas along it sharing a joint pass and a shuttle bus system - Happo-one is the largest and hosted the men's downhill in the 1998 Winter Olympics, and the ski jumping hills at Hakuba Jump Stadium are still there, with a lift to the top of the large hill where you can stand at the start gate and look down the inrun, which is more alarming than the numbers suggest. Snowfall is heavy and the terrain above the treeline is genuinely alpine, which makes it different from the rounded volcano skiing elsewhere in Japan; Happo's upper slopes are steep and the backcountry is serious avalanche terrain. In summer the same lifts serve hiking into the Alps, with Happo pond and the ridge walk to Karamatsu among the standard routes.

What you actually see

• Ten linked areas - a shared pass and shuttle system down a single valley.
• The Olympic jumps - a lift to the large hill start gate, open to visitors.
• Alpine terrain - steep above the treeline, unlike most Japanese ski areas.
• Summer ridge walking - the same lifts serving hikes to Happo pond and beyond.

When to go

December to April for snow; July to October for hiking. Several days.

Honest expectations

Backcountry here is serious avalanche terrain and has taken lives - go with a guide or not at all. Peak season accommodation books far ahead and prices are high. Areas are spread down the valley and the shuttle dictates the day. Rain at lower elevations happens even in winter.

Nearby

Nagano and Zenkoji are east; Matsumoto is south.