Downtown Kingston

Kingston was laid out on a grid after the 1692 earthquake destroyed Port Royal, and downtown is that original city: the harbourfront, the Parade with its parish church at the eastern end, the old commercial streets and the craft market. It emptied as business moved uptown in the second half of the twentieth century and much of it is faded, but the important institutions stayed. The National Gallery on the waterfront holds the country's art collection, the Institute of Jamaica has the natural history and library collections, and the waterfront promenade has been progressively rebuilt, with a large sculpture of Bob Marley and a redeveloped stretch that Kingston now uses in the evenings.

What you actually see

• The National Gallery - the country's art collection, on the waterfront.
• The Institute of Jamaica - library, museum and natural history collections.
• The waterfront promenade - rebuilt and used again in the evenings.
• Coronation Market - the enormous market at the western edge.

When to go

December to April is drier. Weekday daytime is the time to be here; downtown empties after dark and is not a place to walk at night. Last Sundays at the National Gallery are free and busy with a local crowd.

Honest expectations

Parts of downtown have serious crime problems and local advice is to move by car between destinations rather than wander, particularly west of the market; the waterfront and gallery area are fine in daylight. Much of the historic fabric is derelict. Coronation Market is overwhelming and not a casual stroll for a visitor.

Nearby

Port Royal is half an hour down the spit; uptown and Devon House are north.