Subiaco

Benedict of Nursia withdrew to a cave above the Aniene around the year 500 and lived there three years before founding communities in the valley; the monastery of San Benedetto, also called the Sacro Speco, was built directly onto the cliff above that cave, on nine levels stacked into the rock so that floors, stairs and chapels follow the stone rather than a plan. The upper and lower churches are frescoed from the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, including a portrait of Francis of Assisi painted from life or close to it, without halo. Nearby Santa Scolastica held the first printing press in Italy, set up in 1465.

History

The Aequi, an Italic people, lived here until the Romans conquered them in 304 BC, and the name comes from the artificial lakes of Nero's villa, Sublaqueum, "under the lake". Around 494, at the age of fourteen, St. Benedict withdrew to a cave above the Aniene for three years, and he went on to build twelve monasteries with twelve monks in each, including one at the grotto (Wikipedia, Subiaco, Lazio).

What to look for

• The cliff construction - nine levels built into the rock face.
• The Sacro Speco - the cave where Benedict lived as a hermit.
• The frescoes - thirteenth and fourteenth century cycles, including an early Francis.
• Santa Scolastica - the abbey with Italy's first printing press, 1465.

When to go

April to October; the monastery closes at midday for several hours. Winter is cold and the road can be icy. It is a working monastery and asks for quiet.

What to expect

Access involves a walk uphill and many internal stairs, difficult for limited mobility. Midday closure catches people out. Photography is restricted inside.

Nearby

The Aniene valley runs below; Tivoli lies west.