Lucca

Lucca built its bastioned walls between 1544 and 1650 against a siege that never came, and because they were never breached or demolished they survive complete, four kilometres of rampart now planted with plane trees and used as a walking and cycling circuit above the roofs. Piazza dell'Anfiteatro keeps the oval of a Roman amphitheatre in its ring of houses, built into the arena over centuries. The Guinigi tower carries oak trees growing from its roof, planted centuries ago. Puccini was born here in 1858 and the house is a museum; the city ran as an independent republic for most of its history.

What you actually see

• The walls - four kilometres of intact ramparts as a tree-lined circuit.
• Piazza dell'Anfiteatro - a Roman arena outlined by the houses built in it.
• The Guinigi tower - oaks growing from a tower roof above the city.
• Puccini's birthplace - the composer's house, now a museum.

When to go

April to June and September to October; the Lucca Comics festival at the end of October fills the city completely. Summer heat is heavy on the walls.

Honest expectations

Late October is extremely crowded for the festival. Tower climbs are steep with no lift. The centre is largely car-free with a restricted traffic zone that fines drivers.

Nearby

Pisa lies southwest; the Garfagnana runs north.