The Gap of Dunloe

The Gap of Dunloe is a narrow glacial breach between MacGillycuddy's Reeks and Purple Mountain, with a single tarred lane running about eleven kilometres through it past a chain of small lakes joined by the River Loe. The walls close in steeply, rock comes down to the road in places, and old stone bridges cross water that is dark with peat. Ponies and traps have carried visitors through it since the nineteenth century and still do. The classic way to see it is a loop: a boat across the Killarney lakes to the southern end, then a walk or a ride north through the pass, which takes most of a day.

What you actually see

• The chain of lakes - small dark lakes strung along the valley floor.
• The Wishing Bridge - one of the old stone crossings on the lane.
• The pony traps - horse-drawn jaunting cars working the road.
• The Black Valley - the quiet valley beyond the southern end of the pass.

When to go

Late spring to early autumn, when the boats run for the loop route and the light lasts. Cars are discouraged through the gap during daylight in season, and the lane was never built for them. Walking it takes three to four hours one way. Go early, because the middle of the day brings the largest groups and the busiest traffic.

Honest expectations

It is a tarmac road rather than a mountain path, shared by walkers, cyclists, traps and the occasional determined driver, which makes the narrow sections tense. The trap trade can be pushy near the northern car park, and the price is worth agreeing before you get in. Rain fills the valley with low cloud, and there is no shelter along the way.

Nearby

Killarney National Park and its lakes lie east; Carrauntoohil rises to the west.