Slemani Museum

The Slemani Museum is the second largest archaeological museum in Iraq after Baghdad, holding material from prehistory through the Sumerian, Assyrian and Islamic periods, much of it excavated in the surrounding region, which has been one of the more active areas for fieldwork in recent years. Its cuneiform collection includes tablets recovered from the antiquities trade, among them pieces that filled gaps in known literary texts, including a fragment that added lines to the Epic of Gilgamesh. Displays were substantially modernised with international support and labelling is better than at most Iraqi museums, with a good deal in English. There is a gallery of Kurdish ethnography as well. It takes two hours and entry is free.

What you actually see

• Cuneiform tablets - including pieces recovered from the trade.
• Regional excavation finds - material from digs in the surrounding province.
• Assyrian and Sumerian objects - sculpture, seals and pottery.
• Kurdish ethnography - costume, tools and domestic material.

When to go

October to April for comfortable weather in the city; the museum is indoors and works any time. It closes one day a week. Mornings are quietest.

Honest expectations

The collection is smaller than Baghdad's and some galleries are sparse. Labelling, while better than most, is still uneven. Photography rules vary by gallery. Two hours covers it comfortably.

Nearby

The grand bazaar lies nearby; Dukan lake is northwest.