Byara and Tawella

The Hawraman, a mountain region straddling the Iraq-Iran frontier, has a distinctive building tradition: villages climb the steep slopes in terraces so that the flat roof of one house is the courtyard of the one above, stone laid without mortar, with wooden balconies and walnut trees between. Byara and Tawella are the two main settlements on the Iraqi side, both old, both with a long tradition of religious scholarship, and Byara holds a much-visited shrine and takiya. The people speak Hawrami, a language distinct from the main Kurdish varieties. Walnut and pomegranate orchards fill the valley floors, and the mountains rise steeply behind. The area is a border zone and checkpoints are part of the journey.

What you actually see

• Terraced stone villages - houses stacked so roofs serve as courtyards.
• Dry-stone building - walls laid without mortar in the local tradition.
• Walnut and pomegranate orchards - the valley cultivation between the slopes.
• The Hawrami language - a distinct tongue still in daily use.

When to go

April to June for blossom and green slopes, September and October for the walnut and pomegranate harvest and clear air. Winter brings heavy snow and the roads can close.

Honest expectations

This is a border area with checkpoints and permissions that can change; current advice matters. Roads are narrow and winding. Facilities are minimal, with few places to stay. Villages are lived in, so walking among houses and photographing needs courtesy.

Nearby

Ahmed Awa lies south; Halabja is west.