Al-Abbas Shrine

Abbas ibn Ali was the half-brother and standard-bearer of Husayn and was killed with him at Karbala in 680, and his shrine stands a few hundred metres from Husayn's across an open paved space known as Bayn al-Haramayn, between the two sanctuaries, which fills with pilgrims moving from one to the other. The building follows the same pattern: a gold dome and minarets, a courtyard of iwans, mirrorwork inside and a silver grille around the tomb. Abbas is venerated particularly for loyalty and for having tried to bring water to the besieged camp, which is why water and thirst run through the imagery and ritual associated with him. The two shrines together form the centre of Karbala and of its pilgrimage.

What you actually see

• The gold dome - gilded dome and minarets above the tomb chamber.
• Bayn al-Haramayn - the paved space between the two shrines.
• Mirrorwork - faceted glass covering the interior surfaces.
• Water symbolism - the imagery tied to Abbas and the siege.

When to go

November to March for the weather. Ashura and Arbaeen bring enormous crowds. Evenings are cooler and the shrines are lit, which is when many pilgrims come.

Honest expectations

Modest dress is required and enforced, with women covered. Cameras and phones are often restricted at the gates. Non-Muslim access varies by area and by day. The square between the shrines is dense with people at almost all hours.

Nearby

The Imam Husayn shrine faces it; Najaf lies south.