Tetebatu

Tetebatu sits at around four hundred metres on the southern flank of Rinjani in a landscape of terraced rice, and it is quiet in a way the Lombok coast is not - a scatter of guesthouses among the fields, cool at night, with paths running through the terraces to a monkey forest, to the Jukut and Sarang Walet waterfalls and up towards the national park boundary. Tobacco is the district's other crop: Lombok grows a substantial share of Indonesian tobacco and the drying barns, tall windowless brick structures with wood-fired furnaces, stand through the fields and are worked hard in the season, which is a distinctive sight and a serious source of local income. Walking with a village guide through terraces, tobacco and forest is what people do here.

What to look for

• Terraced rice on a volcano flank - the fields stepping down from Rinjani.
• Tobacco drying barns - tall brick kilns standing through the fields.
• Waterfall walks - Jukut and Sarang Walet on the paths above the village.
• A monkey forest - the wooded stretch on the way up towards the park.

When to go

April to October; tobacco curing runs in the dry season. Two days.

Good to know

It rains often on this side of Rinjani. Waterfall paths are muddy and guides are usual and expected. Facilities are simple guesthouses and there is little nightlife or shopping.

Nearby

Rinjani is above; Sembalun is over the mountain; Kuta Lombok is south.