Secret Gilis

Gili just means small island in Sasak, and Lombok has dozens of them; the three off the north-west coast - Trawangan, Meno and Air - took the name in tourist usage and absorbed the visitors. The others, scattered off the south-east around Jerowaru and off the north-east near Sambelia, are collectively called the secret Gilis and are what the famous three were forty years ago: Gili Kondo, Gili Bidara, Gili Petagan and Gili Lampu in the north-east; Gili Sunut, Gili Layar and others in the south. Most are uninhabited or hold a few fishing families, with white sand, shallow reef and no infrastructure - day trips by chartered boat, or camping and basic homestays. Reef condition varies and bombing damage from earlier decades is still visible in places.

What you actually see

• Uninhabited islets - white sand and shallow reef with no development.
• Chartered day boats - the usual access, from Tanjung Luar or the east coast.
• Old blast damage - reef rubble in places from bomb fishing in earlier decades.
• The Gilis before tourism - what the famous three looked like decades ago.

When to go

April to October; boats stop in rough weather. Two days.

Honest expectations

There are no facilities on most of these islands - bring water, food and shade. Boat prices are negotiated. Reef condition is uneven. Snorkelling gear is not always available locally.

Nearby

Tanjung Luar market is on the south-east coast; Rinjani is inland.