Atiu

Atiu is a raised coral island ringed by a fossil reef terrace called makatea - jagged limestone riddled with caves, some of them ancient burial sites, others home to the kopeka, a swiftlet that navigates in darkness by echolocation like a bat. Conservation work here brought the kakerori, or Rarotonga flycatcher, back from near-extinction, and the island's forest is alive with birds. Atiu also grows coffee, revived from plantation days, and its bush beer schools - informal gatherings where home-brewed beer is shared in a bush hut with singing - are a genuine local institution rather than a show.

What you actually see

• Anatakitaki cave - the kopeka swiftlet cavern, entered with a guide.
• Burial caves - ancient limestone caverns in the makatea.
• Birdwatching - kakerori and other species in the island forest.
• A bush beer school - the local brewing and singing tradition.

When to go

The dry season from May to October is best for caving and walking on sharp makatea. Flights run only a few times a week, which dictates trip length. Birding is good year round with breeding activity in the warmer months.

Honest expectations

Atiu is very small and very quiet - a handful of guesthouses, no resorts, limited food options and no nightlife beyond bush beer schools. Caves require a guide, both for safety and because they are on customary land. The makatea limestone is genuinely sharp and shreds soft shoes. Flights are limited and occasionally cancelled, so build slack before onward connections.

Nearby

Rarotonga and Aitutaki by air; Mauke and Mitiaro on the same island group.