Aunu'u Island

Off Tutuila's eastern tip, Aunu'u packs volcanic curiosities into its small ring: the crater's Red Lake glowers in its tuff bowl, Pala Lake's famous quicksand marsh wobbles its warning crust (viewed, not tested), taro paddies flood the island's traditional agriculture, and the village runs Samoan custom at its most intact - church bells, sa evening prayer pauses and welcome that expects greeting in return. Village boats hop the channel from Auasi in minutes when seas allow; trails loop the island's coastal scrub and viewpoints in an unhurried circuit. It is Tutuila's day trip into deeper custom and stranger ground.

The landscape

• Pala's quicksand marsh - the wobbling crust, respected.
• Red Lake's crater - the tuff bowl's glower.
• The taro paddies - flooded tradition at work.
• The village custom - Samoan life at full observance.

When to go

June to September for calmer channel hops; Sundays belong to church and quiet - visit weekdays, and honour the sa pauses any day.

Things to know

The channel cancels in swell - flexible plans; custom is the island's law: dress modestly, ask before photographs, accept the pace.

Nearby

Auasi, Tutuila's east end and the national park units.