Tsomgo Lake

Tsomgo, also called Changu, lies at about 3,750 metres in a hollow on the road toward the Nathu La pass, roughly a kilometre long and fed by snowmelt. It freezes over in winter and thaws through spring, and its colour changes with the season, which local Buddhist and Bhutia tradition reads closely; lamas were said to forecast from it. Primula and rhododendron flower around the shore in late spring, and yaks decorated for photographs wait on the bank. Because the road runs toward the border, access requires a permit obtained through a registered agent, and foreign nationals face additional conditions.

What you actually see

• The frozen or open lake - ice in winter, thaw and colour change in spring.
• The shore flowers - primula and rhododendron in late spring.
• The decorated yaks - animals waiting on the bank for photographs.
• The high road - the route climbing toward Nathu La above the lake.

When to go

April to May for flowers and October to December for clear weather; the lake is frozen from roughly December to March, which is a separate draw. The monsoon brings landslides on the road.

Honest expectations

Permits are compulsory and take a day to arrange through an agent; foreign nationals may be refused for onward sections. Altitude at 3,750 metres affects visitors coming up quickly. Yak handling here draws welfare criticism.

Nearby

Gangtok lies west; Nathu La is further up the road.