Zuluk

Zuluk sits at about 2,900 metres on the old trade route that ran from Kalimpong over the Jelep La into the Chumbi valley and on to Lhasa, a road used by mule caravans until the pass closed in 1962 and later rebuilt by the army. Above the village the road climbs in a series of tight hairpins, commonly counted at around thirty-two, stacked so that the whole zigzag is visible at once from Thambi View Point, which is the image the place is known for. From the same point Kanchenjunga can be seen at sunrise. Homestays in the village provide the only accommodation, and the area is heavily militarised.

What you actually see

• The hairpin loops - around thirty-two switchbacks visible in one view.
• Thambi View Point - the overlook above the loops, used for sunrise.
• The old Silk Route - the trade road toward the Jelep La pass.
• The village homestays - family accommodation, the only option here.

When to go

March to May and September to December; the monsoon brings landslides and winter snow closes the higher road. Sunrise from Thambi is the reason to stay overnight.

Honest expectations

Permits are compulsory and foreign nationals are generally not allowed on this route. Accommodation is basic homestays with no heating. Altitude and cold are significant, and the road is narrow with military traffic.

Nearby

Rongli lies below; Nathu La is northwest.