Gangtok

Gangtok sits at about 1,650 metres on a ridge running north to south, with the town built in terraces down both sides so that streets are stacked above each other and stairways connect them. MG Marg, the main street, is pedestrianised, paved, and kept clean under Sikkim's strict rules, which include a state-wide ban on single-use plastic and on smoking in public. Enchey and Do Drul Chorten are the town monasteries, the Namgyal Institute of Tibetology holds a serious collection of Tibetan manuscripts and thangkas, and on clear mornings Kanchenjunga closes the view to the northwest.

History

The earliest records of Gangtok date from the building of the hermitic Gangtok monastery in 1716, and it remained a small hamlet until the Enchey Monastery, built in 1840, made it a pilgrimage centre. In 1894 the Chogyal Thutob Namgyal moved the capital of Sikkim here from Tumlong and built a new palace and state buildings, and in the early 20th century Gangtok became a major stop on the trade route between Lhasa and Calcutta (Wikipedia, Gangtok).

Highlights

• MG Marg - the paved pedestrian main street through the centre.
• Namgyal Institute - Tibetan manuscripts, thangkas and ritual objects.
• Do Drul Chorten - the stupa ringed by prayer wheels above the town.
• Kanchenjunga - the peak visible from ridge viewpoints on clear mornings.

When to go

March to May for rhododendron and October to December for the clearest peaks; the monsoon brings landslides that close the road from Siliguri for days at a time.

What to expect

Areas beyond Gangtok, including Tsomgo and north Sikkim, require permits arranged through registered agents, and foreign nationals face additional restrictions. Landslides close roads regularly. The town is steep and walking is tiring.

Nearby

Rumtek lies southwest; Tsomgo is east on the Nathu La road.

Key facts