Pasanauri

Pasanauri sits on the Georgian Military Highway where the Black Aragvi and the White Aragvi come together, and the confluence is visible: the two rivers run side by side in the same channel for some distance before mixing, one grey and one clear, with the line between them plain from the bridge. The village's other claim is culinary. Pasanauri asserts itself as the home of khinkali, the twisted dumpling filled with spiced meat and broth that is eaten across the country, and its restaurants along the road have built their business on that, so nearly every vehicle heading north stops here to eat.

What to look for

• Two rivers meeting - the black and white Aragvi running side by side.
• The line between the waters - visible from the bridge before they mix.
• Khinkali restaurants - the roadside trade the village is known for.
• The Aragvi valley - the mountains closing in above the village.

When to go

May to October; the colour difference is clearest after rain in one catchment. Two hours as a stop. Restaurants are busiest at lunchtime when the marshrutkas pass.

What to expect

The claim to have invented khinkali is contested and unprovable. The colour contrast varies with weather and is sometimes barely visible. It is a roadside village with heavy traffic and little else. Restaurants are geared to passing coaches.

Nearby

Ananuri is south; Gudauri lies north up the highway.

Key facts