The Camargue

The Camargue is France gone feral in its own delta: between the two arms of the Rhone, a horizon-flat world of lagoons, salt steppe, reed beds and rice paddies that ranks among western Europe's great wetlands, protected since 1970 as a vast regional nature park. Its emblems are unfair in their photogenic perfection - thousands of greater flamingos wading the brine, the white horses of the Camargue running half-wild, black bulls herded by gardians, the region's mounted cattle-keepers, whose low whitewashed cabins still dot the marsh. The Pont de Gau ornithological park puts the flamingos at close range; Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer anchors the coast with its fortress church and pilgrim traditions; and toward Aigues-Mortes the saltworks stain whole lagoons a mineral pink under white salt mountains. Ride it on horseback, cycle the dyke tracks or drive the lagoon roads at golden hour - the delta rewards slow travel and binoculars.

What you actually see

• The flamingo lagoons - thousands of birds wading at Pont de Gau and beyond.
• The white horses - half-wild herds and gardian-led rides through the marsh.
• Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer - the fortress church above the delta's beach town.
• The pink salt pans - mineral-coloured lagoons and salt mountains near Aigues-Mortes.

When to go

Spring and early autumn are prime - migrating birds mass, temperatures stay kind and the light turns painterly; flamingo colour peaks toward the breeding season. High summer delivers heat, glare and the marsh's infamous insects.

Honest expectations

The mosquitoes are not folklore - from late spring through summer, repellent is survival equipment at dawn and dusk. Distances between sights are long and flat, so a car or serious cycling legs are needed; much of the deep marsh is closed reserve, viewable only from perimeter tracks. Wind can strip a beach day without warning.

Nearby

Arles' Roman arena, Aigues-Mortes' walled town and the Alpilles hills.