The Kalinago Territory

On Dominica's rugged east coast lies the Kalinago Territory, home to the largest surviving community of the Kalinago, formerly called the Caribs, the indigenous people who once inhabited much of the Caribbean and gave the region its name. Almost wiped out elsewhere by colonisation, they endure here in a territory of some 3,000 people with its own council and chief, keeping alive their heritage, crafts and traditions, though the Kalinago language itself died out around 1920. Visitors can explore the Kalinago Barana Autê, a recreated traditional village set by a dramatic coastline, learning about canoe-building, distinctive basket weaving, cassava bread-making and the history of a proud, resilient people.

History

The first land set aside for the Kalinago was 232 acres of mountain and rocky shore around Salybia, reserved by the British colonial authorities in 1763 when the island was surveyed into lots; a legend grew that Queen Charlotte had asked for it, though later officials could find no title deed. In 1902 the Administrator, Henry Hesketh Bell, proposed setting aside 3,700 acres and officially recognising a Kalinago chief, and his proposals were adopted in 1903, creating what was then called the Carib Reserve, home at the time to about 400 people; the chief received a silver-headed staff and a ceremonial sash. The post of chief was restored in 1952, when the Kalinago Council was also created, and the Carib Reserve Act of 1978, the year of independence, reaffirmed the boundaries and local institutions; a 2015 amendment made Kalinago Territory the official name (Wikipedia, Kalinago Territory).

The main sights

• The Kalinago Barana Autê - the recreated traditional village.
• The crafts - the distinctive basket weaving and canoe building.
• The cassava bread - the traditional food preparation.
• The rugged coastline - the dramatic east-coast setting.

When to go

December to April, the drier season, for the most comfortable weather to visit the territory and its cultural village on the wild east coast; guided visits to the Kalinago Barana Autê explain the traditions and history, and are best arranged in advance or through a tour, ideally with a Kalinago guide.

Before you go

This is a living community, not a spectacle, so a visit should be respectful and, ideally, arranged in ways that benefit the Kalinago directly, and the cultural village is a recreated interpretation rather than the everyday homes of the people; the east coast is remote and rugged. As a rare and meaningful chance to encounter the heritage of the Kalinago, kept alive against the odds on Dominica, though, it is a genuinely significant and moving experience.

Nearby

The east coast, the rainforest interior and the capital Roseau are within reach.