Zoige Grasslands

The Zoige plateau sits at around 3,500 metres and holds one of the largest high-altitude peat wetlands in the world, a spongy expanse of marsh, meadow and meander that stores water and feeds the upper Yellow River. At Tangke the river swings through a broad loop across the flats, the first bend, viewed from a hillside boardwalk that is spectacular at sunset when the channels catch the light. Black-necked cranes breed on the marshes, Tibetan herders graze yaks and sheep across the meadows, and summer brings wildflowers over the grassland. Winters are severe, with the plateau frozen and windswept.

What you actually see

• The first bend of the Yellow River - the wide loop across the flats at Tangke.
• The peat wetlands - marsh and meander holding water on the plateau.
• The black-necked cranes - breeding birds on the marshes in summer.
• The herder camps - yak and sheep grazing across the meadows.

When to go

June to September for flowers, birds and passable weather; sunset at the first bend is the classic hour. Winter is extremely cold with roads sometimes closed. Altitude affects most arrivals.

Honest expectations

Distances are long and public transport slow. The first-bend viewpoint charges entry and has a lift for the steps. Altitude at 3,500 metres causes headaches and poor sleep for many.

Nearby

Langmusi lies north; Songpan is south.