Langmusi

The White Dragon river runs through Langmusi and forms the provincial boundary, so the town has a Gelug monastery on each side: Kirti on the Sichuan bank and Sertri on the Gansu bank, both active, with monks moving between them and the shops in between. It sits at about 3,300 metres in a valley closed by limestone ridges and conifer forest, and paths lead up the gorge behind the town to the river's source in a cave, over grassland passes, and to the sky burial ground above Kirti, which is used and where visitors are asked to keep their distance and not photograph. Horse treks run onto the surrounding grassland.

What you actually see

• The two monasteries - Kirti and Sertri facing each other across the border stream.
• The gorge walk - the valley behind the town to the river's source cave.
• The grassland treks - horse trips onto the surrounding plateau.
• The mountain setting - limestone ridges and conifer above the valley.

When to go

May to October for accessible roads and walking; winter is severe with snow and many guesthouses closed. Summer brings monsoon rain in the afternoons. Nights are cold year-round.

Honest expectations

At 3,300 metres altitude affects arrivals. The sky burial site is a functioning funeral ground and photography is not acceptable there. Accommodation and food are simple.

Nearby

Zoige lies south; Xiahe and Labrang are north.