Koguryo Sites of Ji'an

Ji'an was a capital of Koguryo, a kingdom that ruled parts of what is now northeast China and the Korean peninsula from the first century BC to 668, and the sites here were inscribed by UNESCO in 2004. The General's Tomb is a stepped pyramid of cut granite blocks around thirteen metres high, sometimes called the eastern pyramid, built for a fifth-century ruler. The Gwanggaeto stele, over six metres of inscribed stone erected in 414, carries one of the most important early inscriptions in the region's history. Beyond them lie the Wandu mountain city walls and cemeteries of thousands of tombs, some with wall paintings, most closed to protect them.

What you actually see

• The General's Tomb - a stepped granite pyramid of the fifth century.
• The Gwanggaeto stele - a six-metre inscribed stone from 414.
• The Wandu mountain city - the fortress walls above the town.
• The tomb fields - thousands of burial mounds across the valley.

When to go

May to October; the Yalu valley is cold in winter and some sites close. Ji'an is a small border town with limited services. Painted tombs are almost all closed to visitors for conservation.

Honest expectations

The painted tombs, the most interesting element archaeologically, are closed. Ji'an sits on the North Korean border and the area is sensitive, with photography restrictions along the river. English interpretation is minimal.

Nearby

The Yalu River and the North Korean border run alongside; Tonghua lies north.