Huanglong Valley

Huanglong is a single valley about three and a half kilometres long, climbing from roughly 3,000 to over 3,500 metres and floored end to end with terraced pools of calcite left by mineral-rich spring water. Seen from the boardwalk that runs its length, the pools shade from milky turquoise to rust orange depending on depth, algae and the day's light, with conifer forest and snow peaks behind. A cable car carries visitors up one side so the walk can be done downhill, which matters at this altitude. The site is inscribed by UNESCO and, unlike nearby Jiuzhaigou, it is a compact one-day walk rather than a network of valleys.

What you actually see

• The Five Colour Pond - the largest cluster of pools near the head of the valley, with the strongest colour.
• The boardwalk - the raised walkway running the full length of the terraces, one route up and one down.
• The travertine flows - wide sheets of pale rock where water spreads in a thin film across the valley floor.
• The Huanglong temple - the old wooden hall at the top of the valley, above the highest pools.

When to go

Water levels matter more than temperature. The pools look best from late spring through early autumn, and by winter many are frozen or dry. Autumn adds colour from the surrounding larch and birch. Go early, take the cable car up and walk down. The valley is above 3,000 metres, so allow a day at altitude first.

Honest expectations

Altitude is the real issue, and plenty of visitors get headaches; oxygen canisters are sold at the entrance for a reason. Colour depends entirely on water, and in a dry spell the pools look flat and grey. The boardwalk is one-way and crowded, so there is no lingering at the popular viewpoints on a busy day.

Nearby

Jiuzhaigou lies a few hours away by road, with Songpan and the grasslands to the west.