Bingling Temple Grottoes

Bingling Si occupies a canyon of eroded red pillars off the Yellow River, and since the Liujiaxia dam filled in the 1960s the approach has been by boat across the reservoir, an hour or more depending on the vessel, which means the site can only be visited when boats run. The caves were cut from the fourth century onward, with the earliest inscription dated 420, and they hold around two hundred niches with statues and murals spanning the Northern Wei to the Ming. The largest figure is a seated Maitreya of the Tang, about twenty-seven metres high, carved into the cliff above the river.

What you actually see

• The Tang Maitreya - a seated Buddha some twenty-seven metres tall.
• The cave niches - around two hundred chambers with statues and murals.
• The boat approach - the crossing of the reservoir to the canyon.
• The rock pillars - eroded red formations around the temple canyon.

When to go

April to October; boats do not run in winter when the reservoir ices, and low water can affect the landing. Allow a full day from Lanzhou including the crossing both ways.

Honest expectations

The boat is the only access and adds cost and hours; fast boats charge much more than slow ones. Some caves, including the finest, require an extra fee and a guide. Winter access is generally not possible.

Nearby

Lanzhou lies east; Xiahe is southwest.