Calbuco

Calbuco town sits on an island in the Reloncavi sound, joined to the mainland by a causeway, and it lives on the sea: mussel farming on lines in the sheltered water, fishing, and wooden boatbuilding of the kind that Chiloe and this coast share. It was founded in 1602 by Spanish settlers withdrawing from the south after the Mapuche uprising destroyed the cities below the Biobio. The volcano of the same name stands about forty kilometres inland and erupted without much warning in April 2015, sending an ash column many kilometres high, closing airspace and covering the region - including the town - in ash.

What you actually see

• An island town on a causeway - in the Reloncavi sound.
• Mussel lines in the water - the local industry.
• Founded in 1602 - by settlers withdrawing from the destroyed southern cities.
• The 2015 eruption - the volcano inland covering the region in ash.

When to go

December to March. Half a day.

Honest expectations

The town is a working fishing and aquaculture place, not a resort. Salmon and mussel farming here have environmental consequences that are argued about locally. Rain is frequent. Services are modest.

Nearby

Puerto Montt is north-east; Chiloe is south across the channel.