Ancud

Ancud was founded in 1768 to fortify the northern entrance to Chiloe, and the archipelago became the last part of South America held by Spain: royalists withdrew here after the mainland was lost and held out until January 1826, when the Treaty of Tantauco finally handed Chiloe to Chile - eight years after Chilean independence was proclaimed. The San Antonio fort on the shore is what remains of the defences. The town's regional museum covers the archipelago's history, the churches and the mythology, and Ancud is also the base for the Punihuil penguin colonies on the western coast.

What you actually see

• The last Spanish holdout - Chiloe surrendered only in 1826.
• The San Antonio fort - what remains of the town's defences.
• A regional museum - on the archipelago's history and mythology.
• The base for Punihuil - the penguin colonies on the west coast.

When to go

December to March; Chiloe is very wet otherwise. A full day.

Honest expectations

Much of the old town was lost to the 1960 earthquake and tsunami. Rain is frequent in any month. The town is quieter and plainer than Castro. Ferry queues at Chacao are long in high summer.

Nearby

Punihuil is west; Castro and the churches are south.