Oeiras

Oeiras was the seat of the captaincy and the capital of Piaui until 1852, when the government moved to Teresina for the river, and the town has stayed small since - which is why the colonial centre survived. The Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Vitoria, begun in the eighteenth century, is the oldest church in the state; the Casa da Camara e Cadeia and the bishop's palace stand on the same square. Its Holy Week is the reason to time a visit: processions run through the streets after dark for several nights, including the Procissao do Fogareu with hooded penitents and torches, in a form that has changed little in generations and is attended by the town rather than staged for visitors. The surrounding country is caatinga and cattle.

What you actually see

• Piaui's first capital - the seat of government until 1852.
• Nossa Senhora da Vitoria - the oldest church in the state.
• Night processions in Holy Week - hooded penitents and torches in the streets.
• A colonial core kept by stagnation - preserved because the capital moved away.

When to go

Holy Week for the processions; otherwise May to September. A day.

Honest expectations

Outside Holy Week the town is very quiet and there is little for a visitor beyond the churches. Accommodation is basic and fills entirely during the processions. Heat is severe. Buses from Teresina take most of a day.

Nearby

Picos is south-east; Teresina is north.