Bonfim Church

The Igreja do Senhor do Bonfim was finished in the 1750s on a hill above the bay, and it draws more devotion than any other church in Bahia. The fitas do Bonfim - coloured ribbons printed with the church's name - are tied to the railings and to wrists with three knots and three wishes, and they are sold by the handful outside; the convention is that the wishes come true when the ribbon wears through and falls off. Inside, the Sala dos Milagres holds ex-votos left in thanks: wax and wooden arms, legs, heads and organs hung from the ceiling, alongside photographs and written notes. The Lavagem do Bonfim each January, when Candomble women wash the church steps with scented water, is one of the clearest public expressions of how the two religions sit together in Bahia.

What you actually see

• The wish ribbons - fitas tied with three knots on the railings.
• The Sala dos Milagres - wax limbs and photographs left in thanks.
• A 1750s hilltop church - the most visited in Bahia.
• The January washing - Candomble women cleaning the steps in public ritual.

When to go

All year; the second Thursday of January for the Lavagem. Two hours.

Honest expectations

Ribbon sellers outside are persistent and prices are negotiable. The Sala dos Milagres is small and can feel intrusive if crowded. The neighbourhood is a working part of the lower city; take normal care. The Lavagem is enormous and closes the area entirely.

Nearby

Sao Joaquim market is nearby; the Pelourinho is up in the Cidade Alta.