The San Antonio Missions

Most visitors to San Antonio see the Alamo and stop, which misses the point: the Alamo was the first of five missions strung along the river, and the other four survive far more completely. Concepción has the oldest unrestored stone church roof in the country, with traces of original wall painting inside. San José, the largest, is a walled compound with a granary, mill, restored native quarters and a famous carved rose window. San Juan and Espada are smaller and quieter, and Espada still draws water through a Spanish-built aqueduct that has run continuously for nearly three centuries. All five together carry the World Heritage listing, and a paved trail along the river links them, which makes cycling between them the best way to see the set.

What you actually see

• Mission San José - the largest compound, with its carved rose window and granary.
• Mission Concepción - the oldest unrestored church roof in the country, with wall paintings.
• The Espada aqueduct - Spanish waterworks still carrying water after nearly three centuries.
• The Mission Reach trail - the riverside path linking all five by bike or on foot.

When to go

Spring and autumn are the comfortable seasons; San Antonio summers are brutally hot and the compounds have little shade. All four southern missions are free and open daily, and they are active parishes, so Sunday mornings belong to services rather than tours.

Honest expectations

The Alamo downtown is by far the busiest and the least intact of the five, and visitors who only do that leave with the wrong impression. The southern four are spread over about twelve kilometres, so seeing them properly needs a bike, a car or most of a day. Summer heat is a genuine limiting factor.

Nearby

The Alamo and the River Walk are downtown; the Texas Hill Country lies north.