Salvador and the Pelourinho

Salvador, the first capital of colonial Brazil, is the vibrant heart of Afro-Brazilian culture, and its historic centre, the Pelourinho, is a UNESCO gem of brightly painted colonial mansions, cobbled squares and gilded baroque churches perched on a bluff above the sea. Once the hub of the slave trade, it pulses today with the music, dance, capoeira, cuisine and Candomblé religion of its rich Afro-Bahian heritage.

What's there

• The Pelourinho - the colourful colonial old town and its squares.
• The baroque churches - the gilded São Francisco church and others.
• The Afro-Bahian culture - the drumming, capoeira and dance.
• The Elevador Lacerda - the historic lift between the upper and lower towns.

When to go

September to March for the warmest, driest weather; the city's own carnival, one of the biggest in Brazil, and the festivals of the Afro-Brazilian calendar are vibrant times to visit, if crowded.

Before you go

The historic centre is liveliest by day; in the evening the activity draws in around the main squares, where drum groups and concerts gather the crowds. Its history includes the painful legacy of slavery, which its living Afro-Brazilian culture proudly reclaims. It is hot and humid, and touts work the tourist areas.

Nearby

The beaches of Bahia and the island of Itaparica are close; the coast stretches north and south.

Key facts