Una National Park

The Una and its tributary the Unac run through the northwest corner of the country over travertine, the same porous limestone that builds the terraces at Plitvice across the border, and the result is a river that falls in continuous steps rather than pools. Štrbački buk is the largest single drop, around twenty metres over a wide travertine lip, and Martin Brod is a village where the Unac breaks into dozens of small cascades among houses and mills. The water is extremely clear and cold. Rafting runs the river at several grades, from family floats to genuine whitewater in spring melt, and the park is quiet enough that the trails along the banks are usually empty.

What you actually see

• Štrbački buk - the park's largest waterfall, viewed from platforms above and below.
• Martin Brod - a village among dozens of small cascades and old mills.
• Rafting the Una - trips at several grades from Bihać and the park villages.
• Ostrožac castle - a hilltop fortress above the valley outside the park.

When to go

May to September for rafting and swimming, with the highest water and hardest whitewater in the spring melt. Autumn is quiet and colourful. The park is a fraction as busy as Plitvice across the border, which is much of its appeal.

Honest expectations

Access to the waterfalls involves rough side roads and the last stretches can be poor. Rafting operators vary in quality, so check equipment and guide qualifications rather than booking on price. Landmine clearance in this region has been extensive but signage still exists in places; stay on marked paths and roads, which is standard advice in rural Bosnia and worth following.

Nearby

Bihać is the base town; the Croatian border and Plitvice lie west.