Jomolhari

Jomolhari rises to 7,326 metres on the border with Tibet and is held sacred as the seat of a protective goddess, which is why mountaineering on it from the Bhutanese side is not permitted; Bhutan banned climbing above 6,000 metres outright in 2003, so the peaks here are looked at rather than summited. The Jomolhari trek approaches from Drukgyel Dzong up the Paro Chhu, reaching base camp at Jangothang around 4,080 metres in three or four days, where the north face rises directly above the camp and blue sheep graze the slopes. Longer versions cross passes at nearly 5,000 metres toward Lingzhi and Thimphu. Yak herders' camps and the village of Soe lie along the route. Weather and altitude decide how much of the mountain anyone actually sees.

What you actually see

• The north face - the mountain rising straight above Jangothang camp.
• Yak herding camps - the seasonal settlements along the valley.
• Blue sheep - herds on the slopes near base camp.
• High passes - crossings near 5,000 metres on the longer routes.

When to go

April to June and September to October. Autumn gives the most settled weather and clearest views; spring brings rhododendrons lower down. Monsoon makes the trail a bog and winter closes the passes.

Honest expectations

This is a serious trek: multiple days above 4,000 metres, camps in cold conditions, and passes near 5,000 metres on the longer routes. Altitude sickness is the main risk and the schedule must allow for it. Climbing the peak is not permitted. Everything runs through a licensed operator at the standard daily rate.

Nearby

Drukgyel Dzong is the trailhead; Paro lies below it.