Lord Howe Island

Lord Howe lies roughly 600 km east of the New South Wales coast, the eroded remnant of a volcano, and the number of visitors allowed on the island at any one time is capped at a few hundred, which shapes everything about a stay. Mount Gower and Mount Lidgbird rise steeply at the southern end, usually with cloud on their summits. Between them and the settlement runs a lagoon holding the world's southernmost coral reef, shallow enough to snorkel from the beach. Bicycles do most of the transport. At Ned's Beach, fish gather in the shallows in numbers that feel unreasonable. Ball's Pyramid, a bare volcanic spire, stands out to sea to the southeast.

What you actually see

• The lagoon - snorkelling over the southernmost coral reef, straight off the beach.
• Mount Gower - a long guided climb with rope sections and cloud forest at the top.
• Ned's Beach - dense schools of fish in knee-deep water at the feeding area.
• Ball's Pyramid - the tall volcanic spire seen offshore from boats and high lookouts.

When to go

September to May covers the warm season, with the best water conditions from December to March. Some businesses close over the winter months, so check what is open before booking. Flights are on small aircraft with strict luggage limits and are the first thing to fill, particularly around school holidays and long weekends.

Honest expectations

Cost is the main barrier: flights are expensive, accommodation is limited and priced for a captive market, and there is no cheap option. Weather can close the airstrip and strand people for days. The Mount Gower climb is genuinely hard, roped in places and slippery, and it can only be done with a licensed guide.

Nearby

Nothing is close. Sydney and Port Macquarie are the mainland gateways, each about two hours by air.