Alofi

Across its narrow strait, Futuna keeps an empty Eden: Alofi, the sister island whose population resettled generations ago, leaving plantations still worked by day-crossing families, beaches of white quiet at the crossing points, forest rising to the interior's heights, and the small chapel keeping its lonely watch for the occasional mass that returns the island its congregation. Boat arrangements from Leava's side cross in minutes when seas allow; the day's shape is plantation walks, the beach's swim and the strait's return - the Hoorn Islands' gentlest expedition. The island lies just across a narrow strait from Futuna and is visible from most of its southern coast.

What you actually see

• The crossing beaches - white quiet at the landing points.
• The worked plantations - day-farmed groves without residents.
• The lonely chapel - the island's kept faith.
• The strait's frame - Futuna's green across the water.

When to go

May to October for the calmest strait; arrangements through Leava's boats - sea state holds the veto.

Honest expectations

The island is families' worked land - crossings and walks run on their courtesy; carry the day's needs entirely.

Nearby

Futuna's south coast and Leava.