Ngoc Chien Village

Ngoc Chien sits in a valley at around 1,000 metres in Son La, settled by Thai, H'mong and La Ha communities, and its houses are the local Thai stilt type with an unusual roofing: shingles split from po mu, the fragrant cypress that grows in these mountains, which last for decades and give the village its look and its smell. Hot springs come out at the valley floor and are used in simple bath houses. Terraced rice fills the valley and turns gold in late September. The road in is the constraint - narrow and steep from Muong La - which is why the place stayed quiet until recently.

What you actually see

• Thai stilt houses roofed in po mu - split cypress shingles.
• Hot springs in the valley - used in simple bath houses.
• Terraces turning gold - in late September.
• A hard road in - which kept the valley quiet.

When to go

Late September for the harvest; March to May otherwise. Two days.

Honest expectations

The road is genuinely difficult and takes far longer than the distance suggests. Homestays are simple and food is what the household eats. It is cold at night. Facilities are minimal.

Nearby

Muong La is south; Mu Cang Chai is north-east over the mountains.