The San Juan Islands

The San Juans sit in the rain shadow of the Olympic mountains, which gives them noticeably more sun and less rain than Seattle, and the state ferry threading between them is one of the great cheap boat rides in the country. Four islands have ferry service: San Juan itself with the small port town of Friday Harbor, Orcas with Mount Constitution rising above the archipelago, Lopez which is flat and made for cycling, and quiet Shaw. Orcas are the headline, with resident and transient pods in these waters, watched from boats or, with patience, from the shore at Lime Kiln Point. Kayaking among the islands is superb, seals and porpoises are constant, and bald eagles are so common they stop being remarkable.

What you actually see

• Whale watching - orcas, humpbacks and minkes, by boat or from Lime Kiln Point.
• Mount Constitution - the viewpoint over the whole archipelago on Orcas island.
• Sea kayaking - paddling between islands among seals and porpoises.
• Cycling Lopez - the flat island made for a day on a bike.

When to go

May to September is the season, with the best weather and whale activity from June to September; the islands are quiet, wet and largely shut down in winter. Ferries fill in summer and vehicle reservations should be made as far ahead as possible.

Honest expectations

Taking a car in summer without a ferry reservation can mean waiting hours or not getting on at all; going on foot or by bike avoids the problem entirely and the islands suit that. Accommodation is limited and expensive in season. Orca sightings are not guaranteed, and the southern resident population is in serious trouble, which reputable operators will tell you.

Nearby

Anacortes and Deception Pass are on the mainland side; Victoria in Canada is a short hop.